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May be the best Cortina available

Description:

May be the best Cortina available. No expenses spared on this total preparation.

  • History: 1965 Lotus Cortina MK 1 – Details • Ivey Engines 1600 Lotus Twin Cam Engine - New Block and Cylinder Head Complete new build - all new parts. Removable cartridge type water pump with new front cover • Rebuilt carburetors • Repaint engine bay • New cooling system swirl pot and radiator hoses • Repair strut mounts and weld in new front strut top plates • All new steering tie rods and boots • New Lotus Cortina steering arms • New brake and clutch master cylinders • All new hard lines for front and rear brakes • New Gaz front and rear shocks • New front and rear wheel bearings and seals • Powder coated wheels • New bushing kits for control arms, drag link, sway bar • New shift lever housing • Rebuilt steering box • Fly wheel • New roll cage • New oil pressure, water temp and oil temp gauges • New oil cooler and lines • Rewired car • New battery cables • Fit new muffler • New rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders. • New ring and pinion fitted into differential — 4.7:1 • Repair/weld in gusset on Lotus A-frame differential • Complete chassis set up - set up on pads, set caster, cambers, toes, ride heights, corner weights List of items found wrong with the Lotus Cortina after purchase that have been corrected - items replaced or repaired: • Steering column mount bolts incorrect size for clamp and one bolt falling out • No corrosion inhibitor in coolant • Heavy rust in cooling system • Steering arm boots gone or hard and breaking apart • Differential leaking (housing cracked at weld) • Bearing cones in steering box damaged • Right front strut heavily damaged seal surface (grinding marks) • Right front wheel bearing damaged (had been dropped and installed) • Tail housing seal leaking (gearbox) • Oil leak in engine oil pressure sender • Oil system plumbed backwards through oil filter and back to engine, requiring two hoses to be made • Radiator hose split almost through hose with hose clamps (clamped too tight) • All cooling system hoses were split, dry and hard (all require replacing) • Carburetor had been on fire and melted fuel supply hose and distributor cap (required rebuild, o-rings and gaskets needed replacing) • Swirl pot hose diameter incorrect • Swirl pot inlet pipe cracked (requires new swirl pot with correct inlet and outlet hose diameter) • Driveshaft bolts grade 3 with no shoulder (driveshafts require bolts with correct grip length before thread) • Leaking wheel cylinders (both sides) • Shoes very wet with both diff oil and brake fluid because of leaking wheel cylinder and section of o-ring missing in drive flange • Trailing arm mount cracked on chassis • Strut tower (RH) cracked (required welding) • Brace missing from brake master cylinders causing excessive movement in bulkhead (made brace to support master cylinders) • Extension welded to brake pedal with very little penetration in weld - dangerous! Required new pedal pad to be made and welded • Brake bias bar did not have jam nut on bar to stop bias bar from moving and changing brake bias (dangerous situation - bar could have moved over and picked up throttle pedal or clutch pedal if it had vibrated and wound out) • Jam nut loose on brake clevis to brake cylinder • Lower front control arm bent • Ring gear on fly wheel required replacing (teeth heavily damaged)
  • Fuel Tank
  • Spare Part: https://m.facebook.com/carbuildsbyslade/photos/?tab=album&album_id=243729480305



Details:

Seller: Race-Cars.com
Joined January 2009
  Mike Walters
Seller's other listings
Company: Race-Cars.com
Country: United States of America
City: Race-Cars.com
Phone: +1 737 241 3999
+1 737 241 3999
Condition Used
Trade or Private: Private
Currency:
Price: $1
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Added: 01/21/2021
Views: 2050

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